Still Living the Not-So-Real Life in Madrid
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Name: Jessie Koljonen
Year: Class of 2013
Hometown: Phoenix, AZ
Major: Behavioral Biology and Spanish
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With all my travels throughout Spain and around Europe, you’d think that I barely spend any time in Madrid! But don’t fret, even though I’ve been jet-setting all around, I have also been taking advantage of all that Madrid has to offer. My Spanish is infinitely better, I feel so much more comfortable navigating around the city, and the Spanish way of life is the norm for me now. (Eating dinner at 9:30pm? That’s early! They don’t refrigerate the milk? Doesn’t weird me out anymore! Navigating around the metro? Like second nature to me now!)
Sometimes, I walk around Madrid in the evening/night time to take part of the night life, explore new bars and tapas restaurants, and try cool new foods – some of which I’ve never even heard of before. The other night, I was with my friends and we had a nice tapas dinner of ox tail, snails, cheese, and olives. It was all delicious! My favorite was the cheese, I love cheese probably a little more than I should. Here in Spain, there is this great type of cheese called Manchego Cheese, which is to-die-for! So delicious, I could eat it all day. The bartender was so nice, and he recommended all the great tapas for us to try. Gracias, hombre! That same night, we went to another tapas bar and tried these awesome mushroom crepes, steak filet with brie cheese, and these delicious salmon rolls stuffed with cheese, apples, and onions. So great!
Another must-do Spanish experience is go to a bullfight. A few weeks ago, I went to an authentic Spanish bullfight. It was so cool! I actually enjoyed it a lot more than I expected to, the whole thing was actually kind of beautiful and artsy. The way the matador interacted with the bull was almost like a dance, and the way he moved was so graceful. I expected to be horrified at the sight of the bullfight, but I really enjoyed it, and definitely felt so very Spanish. I also didn’t realize that bullfighting is such a team sport. There is the matador, who does most of the work and interacts the most with the bull, but he has at least 4 or 5 matador helpers who help him throughout the process, especially in the beginning. Then they sort of wander to the side while the matador gets ready to get down to business. There were 3 different matadors – 2 guys and one girl, who each took turns with different bulls. One of the guy matadors was even younger than me! Something really crazy happened when the woman matador made her debut, I think that she was the most famous and most experienced of the 3 matadors, because the crowd cheered more for her, so she tried doing a crazy little trick, but she ended up having a little incident with the bull. As they let the bull out of the pen, she kneeled on the ground, cape in hand, waiting for the bull to charge. As the bull charged, he came right to her, she didn’t have time to get up, and the bull basically ran her over – tumbled her around a few times, and then the bull came back and did it again. He literally trampled all over her, I thought for sure she was a goner. Luckily, she got back up but was too injured to continue with the bullfight. There definitely must have been some broken bones. I learned later that she was in critical condition in the hospital. Eek! Wow! I could never do something like that.
One weekend, our Hopkins program also organized a tour of Madrid de las Austrias – which was basically the old part of the city of Madrid. For me, it was interesting to listen to and learn about the history of some of the places that I had already explored – like the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de Oriente (where the Royal Palace of Madrid is). We started the tour in the Plaza de Oriente, where there is a collection of majestic sculptures and statues of different kings of Spain – almost 20 statues – all made from “piedra caliza” – a unique type of stone. After, we walked a little and explored the outside of the Royal Palace, which I had already explored with one of my friends a few weeks before. But I love the palace, so it was nice to be able to see it again and learn a little more about it. It’s huge, it is the biggest palace of Occidental Europe, with 3,419 rooms! Inside, there are many collections of paintings, armor, sculptures, and other beautiful royal things collected by the kings and queens of Spain throughout the years. I still haven’t taken a tour of the inside of the palace, but it is definitely on my list of things to do before I leave Madrid.
We also visited the Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almundena, which is right next to the Royal Palace, which I had also visited a few weeks ago. It has a modern style inside, with lots of bright and fun colors. Even though I had already been there, the tour guide enlightened me about some of the history of the place. It is indeed relatively new, it was constructed in 1883 under the vision of the architect Marques de Cubas. But it was under rennovation in 1944 under different architects – Fernando Chueca Goitia and Carlos Sidro. Finally, it went through one more renovation to welcome and honor Pope John Paul II, who came to Madrid in 1993 to dedicate and christen the new cathedral. After our visit to the Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almudena, we went to the Real Monasterio de la Encarnacion. Though we didn’t go in, we learned about how it was a convent for nuns funded by Queen Margarita de Austria, the wife of King Felipe III in the 17th century. There are also very important collections of art inside the monastery.
We continued our tour of Old Madrid with a visit to the Plaza de España, where there are statues of Don Quijote de la Mancha and his sidekick Sancho Panzo, on their horses. These statues are a dedication to Miguel de Cervantes, the author of the famous and classic Spanish book Don Quijote.
Other places we saw on our tour included the Casa de Cisneros, where Benito Jimenez de Cisneros lived, who was a famous nephew of Cardinal Cisneros, an important figure in the religious world. We stopped at Mercado de San Miguel, which I had also been to before, which is one of my favorite markets here in Madrid – lots of great food in tapas sized plates, great for snacking! We wandered through the Plaza Mayor and finally ended our tour in Plaza de Sol, a great central part of Madrid.
Another cool Madrid must-do thing that I’ve done lately was go to El Rastro. El Rastro is this giant outdoor flea market on Sundays. It’s packed with people, and they sell everything from clothes, shoes, and purses, to computer parts and random electronic supplies. It was kind of overwhelming for even me, the avid shopper, but I’m glad that I experienced the craziness that it was.
Another activity the Hopkins Program planned for us was a night at the theater. We saw the play “Veinticinco años menos un dia (The tea is ready!)”. It was a Spanish comedy, with parts of it in English, about the interactions between a husband and wife after he finds out she has a lover. It was interesting but probably not my most favorite play in the world. Overall, I loved going to see the play, I really enjoy getting dressed up and experiencing cultural events like the theater.
It was a Spanish national holiday about a week ago, a “Dia Festivo” – and it was Spain’s Day of the Armed Forces. In the morning, there was a huge military parade, and I woke up early to watch all the soldiers, dressed in uniform, and the tanks rolling down the road in celebration of this day. The king of Spain even made a appearance, it was a pretty cool parade.
Because it was a Spanish national holiday, all the museums were free to the public, so I went to the Naval Museum with some of my friends. It was cool to see all the old cannons, weapons, uniforms, and maps from Spain’s history.
In addition to going to the theater with the Hopkins Madrid program, I also went to another play, Las Meninas, with three of my friends. It was quite an interesting play, and it also tied into what I had been learning in my Arte class. The play was about the famous painting, “Las Meninas” by Diego Velazquez, and told the story of the characters and the events happening around the time of the painting in the royal court. It was cool to see this painting somewhat “come to life”, and I also really appreciated it more since we have been studying Velazquez in the Prado like nobody’s business in Arte. Que chachi!
Another cool thing I did here in Madrid a couple weekends ago was that I went to an Ice Bar! I had never been to one before, but I had seen them on TV shows like Sex and the City (my favorite show) and they seemed so cool, so when I found out that there was an Ice Bar in Madrid, there was no question – I was going. I rallied some of my friends and we bundled up and went to the Ice Bar one night. Now when they say that it is cold, it actually was really cold! The whole place is made of ice – ice chairs, ice couches, ice sculptures, ice walls – so much ice! They even gave us these huge super comfy parkas – kind of like giant parka snuggies to help keep us warm. Good thing I came prepared and brought gloves, because it was -5 degrees Celsius (23 degrees Fahrenheit!) It was a fun experience, we had a blast taking pictures the whole time enjoying some drinks. We were tough, but barely made it two hours, if not an hour and a half, before we had to leave because it was so cool. But such a fun experience, I definitely recommend it!
Being in Madrid and enjoying all the great food here, I have to keep up with exercising or else I’d gain 100 pounds by the time I come back home! I’ve always enjoyed running, but lately I’ve set my mind to run more, and I actually ran my very first 10K here in Madrid just a couple weeks ago! It was called “La Carrera de la Ciencia” (funny how even here in Madrid, away from Hopkins, I can’t get away from anything science related), and it was great! Two of my friends ran it with me, and it was run to be able to experience the whole thing with them! My goal was to finish the entire race without stopping or walking – just running the whole time. I finished with a smile, 6.2 miles later, with a time of one hour and four minutes. The race was actually really large – there were about 8000 people who ran it, and I felt just like a Spaniard running along all those seasoned running pros. It felt great, and I’m actually planning on running another 10K in less than a month, whooooo go me!
When I ran my first 5K, my dad took me to get pancakes after the race, and it has become a tradition for me to get pancakes after a big race. So of course, we scoured Madrid to find good old fashioned pancakes to celebrate our finishing the race. Luckily we found a great place called VIPS which is basically like a Spanish version of IHOP or Denny’s, and my pancake craving was satisfied. Yum!
I’m still loving my unreal life here in Spain and sometimes I have to pinch myself to make sure I’m really still doing all these cool things. I’m so glad I make the decision to study abroad. I feel like I’m so much more cultured, know so much more about Spain and the world, and have experienced new things and tried new food that I would never have thought that I would try. I’ve been on more fun trips – recently Barcelona last weekend, and I just got back from Paris last night! Stay tuned for more blog posts about those trips in the very near future!
xoxo,
Jess
























































































